Griffith Observatory Is Free and Worth Every Cent

2800 East Observatory Road. Art Deco, white and domed, on a hilltop offering this view for free since 1935. From the terrace, LA spreads below in every direction — ten million people, their lights and highways visible from a spot that looks like the future imagined by someone in 1930.

Hike up from Fern Dell — 2.5 miles of moderate climbing through chaparral, the Hollywood Sign growing on the ridge, red-tailed hawks riding thermals. The planetarium shows are excellent. The exhibits are designed for wonder. But the real show is outside on the south terrace at dusk when the city lights bloom and the Pacific draws a dark line at the western horizon.

Arrive two hours before sunset. Weekdays for fewer people. The DASH bus from Vermont/Sunset Metro is free and saves you the parking disaster. Bring a jacket — the hilltop cools fast.